Jeju Dongmun Traditional Market

Dongmun Market in mid-June. Stopped by several times on visiting my parents.The most famous open market in Jeju Island, and perhaps all of Korea, Jeju Dongmun Market boasts some of the freshest local foodstuffs, from prized native Jeju seafoods like red tilefish, abalone, and hairtail fish to black pork, tangerines, and dried Mt. Halla black mushrooms, to clothing, shoes, and all kinds of gadgets and souvenirs. This sprawling market opened in 1945 in the aftermath of Korea's liberation from Japanese colonial rule. It was the island's center for everyday shopping until large-scale corporate stores and mega-supermarket franchises like E-Mart opened a decade ago. 

Still, many residents remain loyal to the vendors they've known for years and insist on shopping for all their needs at the Dongmun Market. My mother is one of them. My parents live literally within a stone's throw of the market and my mother shops there everyday for the freshest produce, seafood and meat. When I was in grade school I fell in love with Dongmun's ddeok bokki (spicy stir-fried rice cakes). The combination of the chewy rice cake, explosive fermented chili sauce, sugar, and spices is unforgettable. I always return to my favorite stall whenever I visit Jeju. Still the same yummy goodness after all these years!

(The famed Jeju hairtail fish)

It's glistening silver hue is simply dazzling. Never have I seen such fresh hairtail fish anywhere else in the world. I just love the taste of hairtail fish (think of a mix between sardine and snapper) and am always eager to get my hands on the fish when it's fresh. The big Korean supermarket nearby carries it frequently. But compared to what I am used to in Jeju, it's all invariably blueish and limpid. I would tell my husband about the super-fresh kind readily available in Jeju, and he, having never seen it with his own eyes, would say, "This looks pretty fresh to me." Well, never again! He was simply amazed by the freshness of the Jeju variety and exclaimed that henceforth we can never be satisfied with what's on the market back in the US!

                                                                    (Red Tilefish of Jeju)

Also known as red horsehead in Europe (the head of the fish resembles that of a horse), it's a type of sea bream or sea bass. Also known as Japanese tilefish, the glistening scales on the fish are reminiscent of shiny new reddish tile. The fish is usually sold dried. It retains its unique flavors when it's dried. The deep flavors of this delicacy are hard to describe. They remind me of Stilton cheese and black mushroom tempered by the freshest kind of cod. And they are not inexpensive! While red tilefish from China sell for about $10 per fish, the Jeju variety sells for $70! Connoisseurs claim that the native Jeju fish has incomparably deeper flavors. To all fish-lovers, I would highly recommend you try it on your next visit to Jeju.

                        Recordings of Korean "trot" music, much loved by middle-aged Koreans

                         Steamed whole pig head, Korean blood sausage, and pig's feet on display

Fresh live sea cucumber at Dongmun Market. One of my our favorite seafoods. My husband and I just love to eat it raw, sashimi-style. We were able to take care of our craving on this trip. On can find the freshest live abalone at several stalls in the market. Live, raw abalone is one of my favorite foods in the whole world. With each chewy bite you can taste the briny wholesome goodness of the sea.

Takoyaki Party

 
  

Takoyaki  (Japanese for "fried octopus ball," made of wheat flour batter and diced octopus, pickled ginger etc. and special sauce) is the quintessential street food in Japan. It is also very popular in Korea. Takoyaki is a simple, yummy snack or meal that is loved by men and women, young and old, somewhat like French fries or pizza in the US. 

When my husband's old friend from Japan, Tetsuro, visited us in early April, we went to a local Japanese grocery store and bought the ingredients for takoyaki and the special takoyaki pan upon Tetsuro's recommendation. The takoyaki pan is essential, as the small concave half-spherical molds in the iron pan give the takoyaki look. I chose the ready-to-use takoyaki batter mix as I am a novice. Tetsuro advised that one could simply use regular wheat flour with salt, pepper, and bits of seafood in the absence of proper taokoyaki mix. In fact, I found the takoyaki mix very salty, something to keep in mind for next time.

Ingredients: Takoyaki mix 110 grams; water 200 ml; eggs 50 grams; blanched octopus 50 grams; green cabbage 40 grams; spring onion 30 grams; cooking oil 15 grams; katsuobushi [dried fermented smoked tuna flakes] 5 grams; takoyaki sauce 45 grams, mayonnaise 45 grams.

1. Mix one whipped egg into water and add takoyaki mix. Stir well.

2. Dice the cabbage, spring onion, and the blanched octopus. 

3. Preheat the takoyaki pan on stove-top and coat it with cooking oil. Add egg/water/takoyaki mix to half-point of each mold in the pan. Add the diced cabbage, spring opnion, and octopus.

4. Add the remaining batter mix to fill each mold to the top and cook on medium heat.

5. As the batter puffs up and spills over, roll each takoyaki gently left and right in the mold so that it does not stick to the base of the mold.  

6. When the takoyaki turns brown (about 10 min), it is ready to be served. Remove the takoyaki from the pan and transfer them on to a plate; sprinkle generously the katsuobushi and pour the takoyaki sauce over the takoyaki and serve.

Ddeok Bokki (spicy Korean rice cake)

In Korea, ddeok bokki, stir-fried rice cake with spicy chili sauce, is the quintessential street food. One can find street vendors selling this favorite snack in busy intersections and city streets, campus towns, crowded open markets, as well as sleepy towns.

My friends Boyeon and Giyeon made this fiery version with chicken. The hot chili sauce burned my tongue delightfully. It was deliciously painful to eat, and utterly addictive.

King Crab Date

My husband and I ate a whole fresh king crab and a giant clam (mirugai) sashimi--among other seafood offerings--in Chinatown. That was a night to remember. One day my husband said stoically that he paid interest on his credit card charge for years afterwards! Well, it was worth it. So fresh and succulent was the crab meat, while the liver titillate the entire palate. And the giant clam's briny sweet taste and chewy texture were a pure delight! 

My husband's creations

My husband also enjoys cooking, although he tends to do more eating than cooking. Once in a blue moon, he'll make some delectable dishes, just based on "instinct," without referring to recipes. He has highly developed taste buds--claims he can tell apart different brands of spring water in a blind taste! He certainly loves to eat and, I must admit, his creations are quite impressive.

Shrimp cocktail with fennel salad

Braised lamb shanks (seasoned with tomatoes, wine, anchovies, rosemary, caramelized onions)

Lamb shanks plated with mashed potatoes and carrots

Paella with seafood 

Prime-aged rib roast